Thursday, July 03, 2008

Lhasa Arrival

The group arrived from Xining last night via train. As far as we know we are the first foreign group since March to come in by train. It was a beautiful ride with 17,000 feet as the highest elevation point. We are all staying at the Tibet Hotel in Lhasa. The hotel is practically empty with only two groups staying. We will be here in Lhasa at the Tibet Hotel for three nights. Today is the 4th of July!

Friday, June 27, 2008

Safe Arrival

Everyone has arrived safely in Beijing. Today the group visits the Great Wall and Summer Palace. We have also officially received permits to go to Tibet. Tickets have been purchased to take the train into Tibet and fly out later to Chengdu with transfer to Shanghai.

Wednesday, June 11, 2008

Final Rail to Tibet Seminar

We are still awaiting word on what will be the situation with travel to Tibet. In the meantime we are preparing alternative plans just in case. We are still hopeful but we are at the mercy of a government decision.

We will hold a second informal seminar for the Rail to Tibet program on Monday, June 16 at the New Britain Super Buffet from 6:00 PM to 8:00 PM. I will provide an update on our travel plans and will return all passports at that time. It has taken much longer than we expected to obtain the visas. We will be getting a "group visa" for those who are entering via Beijing and leaving China via Shanghai together. That means the entire group must be at Bradley a minimum of two hours in advance of the flight to facilitate ticketing to Beijing. For those who cannot make the meeting, arrangements will need to be made with Mary Goetter for passport return.

The address for the New Britain Super Buffet is:

Directions to the New Britain Super Buffet (in Auto Zone, Hollywood Video Plaza)
45 Myrtle Street
New Britain, CT
Telephone: 860-224-8886

Wednesday, June 04, 2008

Hotels

Rail to Tibet

Beijing:
Jiang Xi Grand Hotel BeijingAdd: No.8, Hen Yi Tao, Dong Tie Jiang Ying, Feng Tai District, BeijingTel: 011+86+10+6760 8866
http://www.chinahotelbooking.net/beijing/1048_jiangxi_grand/

International Leadership (CSDE and U of H)

Beijing:
Jiang Xi Grand Hotel Beijing
No.8, Hen Yi Tao, Dong Tie Jiang Ying, Feng Tai District, Beijing
Tel: 011+86+10+6760 8866
http://www.chinahotelbooking.net/beijing/1048_jiangxi_grand/

Jinan:
Crowne Plaza Hotel JINAN
3 Tian Di Tan Street Jinan, 250011
Hotel Front Desk: 86-531-86029999
Hotel Fax: 86-531-86023333
http://www.ichotelsgroup.com/h/d/cp/1/en/hotel/tnach?&sitrackingid=23556799&sicreative=776077992&sicontent=0&firstpoint=dcb2&siclientid=1863&cm_mmc=Google-PS-CrownePlaza-_-G+B-APAC-_-CHN-Jinan-_-crown+plaza+jinan%7C-%7C100000000000166266683&cm_guid=1-_-100000000000166266683-_-776077992&gclid=CPHLp67s2pMCFQWlQAodQC03aA

Tuesday, June 03, 2008

China's Great Train

A new book tells the story of the history and challenges in building the train route from Golmud to Lhasa. It weaves together politics, technology, culture, geography and history to tell the agonizing story of trade-offs and complexity of expansion and globalization. China's Great Train by Abrahm Lustgarten, New York: Henry Holt, 2008, ISBN: 13:978-0-8050-8324-8.

Friday, May 16, 2008

Revised Itinerary









China Rail to Tibet Delegation 2008




June 26-July 12, 2008






Thursday, June 26
Departure from Hartford to Beijing

Friday, June 27
Arrive Beijing in the late afternoon
Hotel in Beijing

Saturday, June 28
Tian’an’men Square, Forbidden City, Hutong Tour, Peking Duck
Hotel in Beijing

Sunday, June 29
Excursion to the Great Wall and Summer Palace
Evening train to Xi’anHotel on the train

Monday, June 30
Arrive Xi’an in the morning
Excursion to the Terra-cotta Warriors Museum
Dumpling Banquet with Show
Hotel in Xi’an

Tuesday, July 1
Morning: Shanxi Provincial History Museum, City Wall and Old Town
Lunch in Muslim enclave
Free time in Xi'an
Hotel in Xi'an

Wednesday, July 2
Morning flight to Lhasa
Rest and free time in Lhasa
Hotel in Lhasa Visit

Thursday, July 3
Visit Potala Palace, Jokang Monastery and Barkhor Street
Hotel in Lhasa

Friday, July 4
Visit schools in Tibet
Hotel in Lhasa

Saturday, July 5
Drive to Shigatse, sightseeing of lakes and glacier mountains along the way
Hotel in Shigatse

Sunday, July 6
Morning: Visit Tashilhunpo Monastery
Drive back to Lhasa from another road
Visit a school if time permits
Visit local Tibetan people's home on the way
Hotel in Lhasa

Monday, July 7
Morning: Take the train leaving for Lanzhou
On the train sightseeing of Tibetan landscape
Overnight sleep on train
Hotel in Lanzhou

Tuesday, July 8
Arrive Lanzhou around noon
City tour in Lanzhou: Visit Lanzhou Museum and Yellow River
Hotel in Lanzhou

Wednesday, July 9
Fly to Shanghai in the morning
Bund area and Nanjing Road
Boat Cruise on Huang Pu River in the evening
Hotel in Shanghai

Thursday, July 10
Morning: Visit Shanghai Museum, City tour in Shanghai (Old Town, Yu Garden)
Afternoon: Free time in Shanghai
Hotel in Shanghai

Friday, July 11
Excursion to Suzhou, an old garden city near Shanghai: Gardens, Boat Cruise on Old Grand Canal, Old Town, Silk Factory
Hotel in Suzhou or Shanghai

Saturday, July 12
Departure from Shanghai back to the U.S.
Arrive in the U.S. on the same day

Monday, April 28, 2008

Money and Bargaining

Chinese currency is called renminbi or RMB. A basic unit of RMB is called yuan or kuai, the colloquial term for yuan. A unit of currency (yuan) is called jiao or mao, the colloquial term for jiao. The current exchange rate is $1.00 is equal to just about 7.0 RMB; one RMB is about 14 cents. If you memorize the conversion rate, it will help you to determine the "value" of your money.

Bargaining is the accepted way of purchasing in China in the open markets; less so in department stores and state-owned gift shops. Bargaining is a social experience and not the kind of behavior one might exhibit in American-style bargaining with unions or plea bargaining in court. If the occasion permits, it is okay to compliment the women as charming and the men as handsome. It is a good way to disarm them a bit. In markets Chinese vendors will have small calculators to punch in their offering price. You might want to bring a small calculator yourself. In the open markets you may want to buy a scarf but you really don't want to let vendors know you really want it. Behave as if you really don't need it even thought you really want it. The opening offering price may be 50 yuan for the scarf. Based on U.S. prices that might be a great bargain but if you go for it in the silk market, you will be just another foreign sucker. And, you will have set the market price for the rest of us! Your response should be to offer 5 yuan. It is ridiculous and they will let you know it. Laugh and agree but behave as if you are still disinterested. They may come back with an offer of 40 yuan. You might offer 10 yuan. The next step I use is to let them know I want more than one scarf. My counter offer is to ask for 5 scarves for 20 yuan. You keep going until you come to an agreement. You have now set the price for purchasing scarves.If you want more, you can tell the next vendor what you paid, and they may simply give you the deal without any discussion, especially if you have already paid too much! They might even try to switch a high quality scarf for a lower quality one. If you catch them doing it just laugh and switch the scarf back. They may even throw in an extra scarf if you have made a large purchase and the social experience has been a good one. The next offer might be .... "Would you like a -----, the name of a very popular watch?" They are out of sight and underneath the scarves. The diamonds are coated with plastic but they do run. If you pay more than $12, you need to go back to bargaining school.

A member of our Fulbright-Hays Delegation in 2002 did an ethnography at the silk market. After extensive interviews and calculations (assuming everyone was honest), our paid purchase price for 20 participants was 27% of the opening price offering. I would say that was very good for novices. The vendors know you are from America and loaded with cash. You will need to be patient in your bargaining to approach Chinese prices. Another way of looking at it is to realize that the whole process is a good lesson in economics. You personally get to establish the market price -- the fundamental concept in a market or free enterprise economy.The famous silk market next the U.S. Embassy in Beijing was closed down in January 2005. It was a tourist icon for many years and could be found in most guide books on Beijing. A new market opened with the same vendors is in an indoor three story complex. The atmosphere is the same but it can get unnerving when you have 6 to 8 vendors yelling at you at the same time and you can't see the sky for an escape route. If you linger too much, they may grab your arm and gently hang on to you so you won't leave. In time it actually becomes fun and a very good way to get to know the Chinese. When they find out that you are an educator, you become an honored market guest.

Hotels: Bellboys, Luggage and Activating Power

When we arrive at a hotel we collect all passports. The hotel will have our name list and they will issue room cards. Later they record your passport number for logging you in to the hotel. I provide them with our list that has passport numbers but they will want the actual passports anyway. They are usually very quick to return the passports since you will need them to exchange money at the exchange counter in the hotel. Please be patient. Everything does work quickly. It is sometimes hard for westerners to turn over responsiblity to others. You will be amazed at how fast they can get things done.

Once the luggage is placed in the hands of the bellboys at the hotel they take over the responsiblity for getting the luggage to your room. The bellboys log all luggage using the luggage tag that has your name which they then match with your assigned room. DO NOT pick up or transport your own luggage to your room at any time except for the carry on luggage you take with you. It will confuse the bellboys and they will have trouble keeping track of all the luggage. They NEVER lose luggage. I will be the last room to receive luggage. I will check the log to see that all luggage has been delivered and take care of the tip for the entire group. I will also sign off on the luggage after it has been delivered to our bus for our next destination and take care of the tip. You will want to do visual checks to see that your luggage is being transported but sometimes all I will have is the count for the number of bags. There are times when we will put luggage out late in the evening for transport the next day so you will not see it until our next destination.

Don't assume that when you open the door to your hotel room there has been a power outage. As you enter the room you will see a slot, usually on your left and about four feet from the floor, to place your room card. Inserting the card activates the electricity for your room. When you remove the card, all lights and power goes out! The system appears to be a well-designed system to not waste energy!

Health and Medical

It is advisable to carry with you basic medical and contact information for emergency purposes. If you are taking medication, bring along an ample supply and make sure you have the generic name just in case. Please consult you physical for immunizations you may need. Generally, for the area we are going in northern China, immunizations are similar to what is recommended in the United States.

Do not forget to bring any prescribed medications or hygienic necessities. While drug stores are available in China, keep in mind that we will be on the move and running a tight schedule. So please stock up on medical and hygienic items you will need in SMALL packaging. Some things to consider bringing:

- Tissues and moist towelettes (in portage packages)
- Multiple packages of tissue (the small pocket size) for use in toilet's
- Waterless anti-bacterial hand cleaner (SMALL container)
- Necessary prescription medication and list of generic names
- Common medications including aspirin, antacid, eyewash, decongestants, cough syrup or throat lozenges etc.
- Medication for diarrhea and constipation
- Bandaids, q-tips
- A SMALL first-aid kit
-- really small of basics that may include some of above.

If you run out of an item or forget something in your hotel room, chances are your colleagues will be supplied.

Western toliets will be available in the hotels but chances are very good that the schools you visit will be the Asian squat style so be prepared. You will need to bring you own tissues. Tissues are not available in public bathrooms. Tissues are placed in a small basket and not in the the commode! The concept of privacy in public areas is different than in the United States. Sometimes the bathrooms are not as enclosed as we are used to. Don't worry people do respect space. This should be rare but just in case ........... Don't be surprised if the public bathrooms are a bit gross.

Probably the most important health consideration is to drink clean water. This is true in many countries including our own. Do not drink any tap water! Drink bottled water. Your hotel room may have a large container of hot water that has been boiled. You can use that to make tea -- the tea bags will be there too! Bottled water will probably be in the hotel room as well. Bottled water is everywhere and very easy to purchase. We will have cases of water on the bus at all times for purchase. The water provided in restaurants should be okay. I suggest that you brush your teeth and clean your brush with bottled water.

For Tibet travellers we will be at high altitudes. Lhasa is around 12,000 feet and there may be times when we are as high as 16,000 feet. People respond to high altitudes in different ways. Time, rest and drinking of liquids are very important in making adjustment to high altitude.

The key to good health is to get as much rest as you can, drink bottled water, and relax. There will be no reason to be anxious about China. You will be surrounded by your colleagues or Chinese hosts and you will taken care of.

Emergency Insurance

The following website takes you directly to an insurance plan that covers medical emergencies while we are in China. It also provides for repatration insurance. If you have an alternative plan, you can use it as well. The SOS basic Student Scholar Abroad traveler can be purchased 30 days or less. The website is: http://www.internationalsos.com/buymembership/Globaltrvlr.cfm?CTYO=USA&TripI=STU&Page=1 You can sign up directly on line and print out a form that has your proof of membership. If you choose to do this, be sure to bring the card with you when travel to China.

Dining in China

There are a few general principles one should be aware of when dining as a group in China. We will not be able to get together to practice before we go to China so we will get crash lessons in eating during our first day or so in China. Then, when we have official banquets with Chinese officials, we will be prepared.

There are real differences in the way Chinese manage meals and we will follow those practices!For most lunches and dinners we will be seated at two large round tables. Our travel and guide services arrange the meals for us. We will never order individually! There will be approximately 8 to 10 dishes or so that will be brought to the table within a VERY short time after we are seated. You may also be provided with a choice of bottled water or soda. Tea, and plenty of it, will always be available. Do not ask for drinks not offered.

Generally, you should not make individual requests of the servers. Let Peng or me know that we are running low. Generally, we then need to pay extra. Or, because the group organizers are asking, it just gets done without a hassle and sometimes without the extra cost. The key is to let us know and avoid taking things into your own hands. It is the organizers job to take care of you the best we can within reason.

Once you get back to the U.S., you are on you own! We can be thankful that we are eating Chinese if you are a person who wants to have vegetables and not meat or vice versa. There are plenty of vegetable dishes. However, just because there is a veggie or meat dish you like, it is NOT yours to claim. Remember, everything is shared. DO NOT LOAD YOUR PLATE WITH YOUR FAVORITE DISH OR WITH SEVERAL DISHES. IT IS RUDE! Loading plates is only done in Chinese American buffet restaurants but not in China. Take a small amount of one or two items, eat them, and then have some more, some more ..... You will not go hungry. You will receive a small plate and you simply keep putting small amounts on the plate and keep eating. Do not ask for a clean plate! If you have bones, etc. simply place them out of the way in front of your plate on the table. That is the way it is done.

The food is placed on a lazy susan so when you want a particular dish you do not need to ask. All you need to do is "gently" spin the lazy susan to your location. However, before you make your move, make sure no one else is left holding their chopsticks in the air because you just moved them away from a morsel of food they were after. You also need to watch out that a bowl that might be teetering too close to the edge does not wipe out your colleagues tea cup and make an embarrassing mess.

You will not have to worry about unsanitary food. Everything is cooked in China! Y ou will not get raw vegetables. If they look raw, they are probably pickled. The water for tea as been boiled and the water comes in water bottles.

It used to be common to put food on your neighbors plate. That is an old custom and rarely done now. You will probably not run into the custom unless you have dinner with someone who is of an older generation. In fact, for the younger generation it is something you may not want to do. The rule of thumb is to look at what your Chinese guest is doing in a banquet situation and then act accordingly. This will be true for Beijing but in Shandong Province expect to have food placed on your plate by your guest. You should do it in return. The same goes with filling glasses. If your hosts glass is empty or nearly so, fill it for him or her.

It is also common to give toasts during the more formal banquets we will have. Our host may make a small speech; our group leader will do it in return. Others may follow but in moderation. It is a good time to share in a sentence or so about things that you may have appreciated about the experience. Raise your glass and then everyone will raise after you have said a few words. There only needs to be a couple of these at a banquet. Toasting is a very important part of Chinese culture. Many agreements have fallen through because Americans did not understand the importance of the custom.

We will not go out of our way to buy alcoholic beverages but one should realize that drinking is an important part of the culture, particularly in Shandong. Our hosts will provide it and it will be an important part of the banquet scene. If you do not care to participate for personal reasons or if your glass is empty, hold up a glass anyway and fake it or hold up your tea cup and drink tea!Generally, you do not fill your own glass. Your guest or your group colleague will do it for you. Let them fill it even if you do not intend to drink it. If you do not want anymore, simply leave your glass full. It is not rude to leave the table with your glass left full. NEVER ask the waiters to bring more wine to your table. They will see that you are out and ask the group leaders. It is our way of "controlling" the banquet and costs as well since wine can be rather expensive. If you repeatedly ask, the waiter may feel obligated to bring it anyway even though we have told them not to. You put them in a very uncomfortable situation.

Americans like to talk a lot a meals. Chinese banquets are a time to relax and have light conversation. In fact, it is okay to be silent for long periods of time. The interpreters need to translate everything you say and you will exhaust them if you talk too much. Make sure translators get to eat! Banquets generally are not a time to have in depth discussions on educational issues of the day!

Chopsticks are to be used for eating and not as a prop for communication. If you are a person who talks with your hands, make sure you put your chopsticks down on the table before speaking. Practice using chopsticks before you go. If you have difficultly using them, it is actually okay to move your mouth close to the plate and shovel the food in gracefully. The same for soups. You can lift the bowl so the distance is shortened and spillage lessened. Chinese soup spoons will be available. The Chinese will probably try to impose forks, knives and spoons on us because they will feel we are incapable of using chopsticks. Peng and I will have them sent back to the kitchen!

We are an education delegation and have come to China to learn. They will be impressed with our attitude to learn. Such behavior is important because we want to develop good relationships with our friends in Shandong and elsewhere. When you get back home you will probably learn to appreciate the speed, efficiency and menu expanse in Chinese dining. You will find that your spouse and/or family may not appreciate your cultural transformation. I had a delegation of 25 Chinese guests I was hosting in an out of the Wethersfield Diner in less than one hour. The reason is .... Peng and I ordered the same meal for everyone. The employees of the diner were rather stunned by the strategy but were very happy because they did not have to write anything down. If you do have special needs for medical or other reasons, you should bring items with you that you can eat at another time.

Chinese Culture

NAFSA: National Association of International Educators has developed a site for Chinese students coming to the United States. The website is http://www.china.nafsa.org. The culture section is particularly useful: http://www.china.nafsa.org/default.htm. Click on the "Differences between American culture" section and there is a neat chart detailing the differences in social relationships. You may want to explore the entire website.

Negotiating Outside the Hotel and in Tourist Areas

Once you have driven through Beijing and observed the ebb and flow of traffic, you will develop a great deal of respect for the bus driver. Somehow everything works in what looks like chaos. Watch for uneven surfaces and little dropoffs that can give you a good spill. If you are a pedestrian, crossing streets can be an experience of a lifetime. If an underground passage or crossing area does not exist, then you will have to negotiate your way across a street in the midst of cars, taxis, buses, trucks and bicycles. Be alert at all times in crossing streets.

When leaving the hotel make sure you take a hotel card with folder. If you get lost, show it to the taxi driver and he/she will get you back to the hotel. People will be helpful if you show them the card.

Beggars and vendors can be abundant in tourist places. There will be vendors selling post cards and other goodies you might want to bring home. You can bargain but you will also be hounded if they find out you are a "shopper." The beggars can be very aggressive and persistent. Sometimes there are three year olds sent by parents to extract money from tourists. It is touching but remember you are really being engaged in a family business operation. Physical expression of annoyance is helpful in ensuring their departure or you may just need to keep moving at a brisk pace. Unfortunately, acts of kindness quickly turns into a begging frenzy so it is best to move on. Remember, they are simply trying to make a living.

Make sure you are prepared with your valuables protected before vendors reach you. And, make sure you have small change because large bills are an incentive for them to pressure you to buy more. Don't be too suprised if they do not return your change because they want you to think about buying more first.

Cell Phones

Communicating with loved ones at home is need we all have. There are easy ways to do it and there is a false sense that an American cell phone will somehow work anywhere in the world. We know it is technologically possible but rarely have participants had much success. Your telephone company will tell you that they can insert an international chip in your phone but chances are it won't work in China. After 13 trips to China I have given up. Someday it will work.

Use a telephone card if you have the need to communicate via live voice with your family. Telephone cards are available for purchase in China at most hotels and can be used in "phone booths" located in hotels. You will find that it is easier to make a short call from your room. It is not that expensive and easier than dealing with phone cards.

Just remember that we will be constantly on the move and will not be able to make special stops for purchases nor be able to interrupt the schedule to make phone calls. The internet is an easy way to communicate AND it will ensure that you do not wake anyone up in the middle of the night by forgetting the time difference. I have been able to conduct susbtantial office business via email in my hotel room and people never know that I am in China.

Traavelers Cheques, Credit Cards, Cash

An experience with money in China can be a major lesson in Chinese culture and can be baffling to western views of how money is perceived. China is a cash society so you will need to exchange your U.S. currency for RMBs to efficiently make purchases in China. The hotel offers exchange services but sometimes can limit the amount to be exchanged each day.

I STONGLY ADVISE that you not bother with travelers cheques. They can be difficult and sometimes almost impossible to use in China. We wasted an hour at a bank last fall simply cashing a travelers cheque. You may get advice from your local bank or other vendors here in the U.S. that their cheques can be used in China. DO NOT BELIEVE THEM! Yes, they can probably be used but you would have to go to a specific bank to exchange. You can bring travelers cheques and try to use them but be prepared to bring them back home. We will not have time to stop at a bank so please have multiple exchange options.

You can easily exchange U.S. currency but you will probably want to limit how much you bring. I suggest bringing hundred dollar bills based on how big a spender you are. Make sure the bills are new, clean with no markings. The Chinese WILL NOT exchange money that has any kind of writing or markings on it or looks old! Please do not make an issue of it. The hotel exchange clerk has nothing to do with creating the policy. Cash can be exchanged at the hotel and will require your passport to process the exchange.

You can use credit cards in most stores and state owned gift shops. There is a service charge but it is probably worth it since it reduces the amount of cash you may wish to carry. For purchase from vendors on the street or purchases in antique and night markets you must have cash. It is also wise to have small bills and not ask for change from large bills. They will insist that you buy more and hold the return of your change. They will give it back but you may not be accustomed to the patience required to gracefully and firmly decline additional purchases. You can also use bank cards at ATM machines to obtain RMBs but we are not always near one and we cannot make special stops. If you plan to make large purchases, it might be a good idea to let your credit card company know that you are going to China.

You cannot get RMBs outside of China without a steep service fee. If by chance you have difficulty exchanging in a timely fashion and need a small amount to get you through a day, I am sure our group will be bonded enough to help you out with a short term loan. Hotels have hours for exchanging funds and usually we can get it done in the evening after we arrive at the hotel or in the morning prior to departure. Please plan ahead so our bus or van departure is not held up because you are exchanging money.

Powering Electronics

Internet access is readily available in most of the hotels we will be staying in. If not, there is usually a business center that you can use. You can look up the hotels when we have them booked on the internet and see what kind of internet service they have. You may find that your time is more valuable exploring China than spending too much time trying to make your equipment work. The cost varies widely from free to expensive. Yes, the market economy is working in China!

You do not need a converter if your equipment is designed for world-wide access (see link below) but you will need adaptors since the wall sockets are different. A converter is a device that changes power from from 220 to 110 and will be necessary if your equipment is designed for 110 only. You may need adaptors for access to power for charging camera batteries. Check out the hotlink to World Electric Power Guide http://kropla.com/electric.htm. It has a picture to show whether your computer electric cable is designed for world-wide access. Please carefully examine your power accessible electronic gear to make sure you have the correct equipment. I take no responsibility for fried electronic equipment!

If you bring your own hair dryer you will need a converter. I suggest you not bring it since most hotels will have them and they do take up space in your suitcase. Yes, I have had a number of fried hair dryers. A source for 220v small electrics for those who want hair dryers is http://www.exportappliances.com/HairDryers.htm. DO NOT buy a voltage converter for a hair dryer or a curler. It will instantly fry!!!

Office Max and Staples carry adapters. The same kit has the adaptors you will need for powering camera batteries and computers but the converter sometimes included is not designed for electronic equipment. Radio Shack has converters.